Compare CS2 Skin Prices Across Every Marketplace

The same skin sells for very different prices on different marketplaces, and on a liquid item the gap between the cheapest and the priciest venue is usually 5–20%. This is a short tour of our tools: where to check the price, how to tell a real edge from an imaginary one, and what to verify before you buy.

AK-47 | Redline★ Karambit | Doppler★ Sport Gloves | Pandora's BoxKilowatt CaseSticker | Crown (Foil)

1. Compare every marketplace at once

Instead of opening a dozen sites, look up the item in one table. This is not a plain price list: profit here is net — the fee of the marketplace you sell on is already deducted, rather than being a gap between two tags.

For flipping or investing that is the whole point: the table shows where the item is cheapest right now, which is your lowest possible entry price.

If you need the full picture for a single item, the wiki has a page per item with prices across all marketplaces, price history and sales volume.

2. Find underpriced listings

Some listings sit at the market base price while carrying value that bulk price scrapers never see:

• Float — the exact wear value. A copy near the bottom of its condition sells at a premium even though the item name looks identical.
• Pattern (paint seed) — on Case Hardened, Fade, Marble Fade and Crimson Web the pattern placement can multiply the price several times over.
• Fade percentage — derived from the seed by formula; the closer to 100%, the more it is worth.
• Stickers — a listing priced at base sometimes carries stickers worth more than the skin itself.

The first two are covered in detail in the article on float and pattern. The classic case where the pattern, not the listed price, decides everything:

AK-47 | Case Hardened (Field-Tested)best price: $203.97 · lis

3. The lowest price is not yet the best trade

A minimum price tag answers one question: what you can buy it for right now. It says nothing about the second question, the one that actually decides the outcome — for how much, and how quickly, you can sell it again.

The reference point here is not someone else's asking price but completed sales. A seller sets a tag on their own and can set any number they like; a sale means somebody actually paid that number. So look past "what they ask" and check how many copies changed hands over the past week. An item with dozens of weekly sales turns back into money within hours. An item with zero sales can sit for months at any price, and a gap between two tags on it means only that two sellers dream differently.

The practical rule: the rarer the sale, the wider the margin you need for the trade to be worth the wait. On liquid classics 7–10% can be enough; on a rare item with no sales history even 100% may not save you, because the second half of the trade might never happen.

4. Check the age of the price, and distrust impossible numbers

Every price in the table shows how old it is. That is not decoration: a price captured three days ago describes a market that no longer exists, and an "edge" measured against it is arithmetic on a number that is gone. Fresh against fresh is the only honest comparison.

Then there are placeholder listings. A seller who does not want to part with an item, but does not want to delist it either, puts up an impossible number — a case at $485,000 when the market is $0.05. That is not a marketplace glitch or a currency mix-up, it is a message that reads "not for sale". We filter these out on import, but on expensive items the line between a placeholder and a genuinely underpriced lot is not always obvious, so instead of silently dropping the deal we mark it with a "check the price" badge. When you see it, open both marketplaces and look for yourself: that badge hides both junk and the most interesting finds.

5. Check what your inventory is worth

A valuation of your whole Steam inventory at the best market price, not just the Steam tag. Free, and no login required — a profile link or SteamID is enough.

6. Count fees and hold before you trade

"Cheaper" is not "profitable". Steam takes 15% on a sale, and the money stays in the Steam wallet — there is no way to cash it out. A purchased item carries a seven-day trade hold, and the price keeps moving the whole time.

Here is what that looks like in numbers. You buy an item on a third-party marketplace for $10.00 and sell it on Steam for $12.00 — a 20% gap between tags, which reads like a profit. After the Steam fee you receive $10.20, so your net is twenty cents, or 2%. And if the price drifted down by those same 2% during the week-long hold, the trade ends up underwater. That is exactly why the table computes profit after the selling marketplace's fee instead of subtracting one tag from another: the number comes out smaller, but it is the real one.

The full fee table by marketplace, plus what actually reaches your card, is in the article on marketplace fees. How to compute net and avoid mistaking a price gap for profit is in the article on arbitrage.

A short pre-purchase checklist

1. Both prices are fresh — I am comparing today with today, not today with the day before yesterday.
2. The item has sales, not just price tags: it is clear who I sell it to and for how much.
3. Profit is counted after the selling marketplace's fee, not as a gap between tags.
4. The trade hold is accounted for: the price has seven days to move against me.
5. If the deal carries a "check the price" badge — I opened both marketplaces and verified it myself.
6. On expensive and rare items I checked float, pattern and stickers: identical names can carry very different values.

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